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Volvo s70 timing belt tensioner9/8/2023 ![]() ![]() Sticker on the cover noted 71k/1999, and it's now 2005 and i'm at 151k. removing the plugs, as simple as it is, is a good idea. after removing the plugs it turned over with no resistance at all. once compression kicked in i felt some resistance, and stopped there, i thought maybe i'd run into the valve/piston interference. i got tricked into thinking i'd screwed up when i hand-cranked the engine. also, keeping tension on the crankshaft pulley while positioning the belt on the intake cam is a must (belt kept slipping off of the crankshaft pulley when tensioned, and took me about 6 tries before i was comfortable with the tension on it.) if there's ANY slack in the right side of the belt between the crankshaft and intake cam pulley, start over! edited to add: i'd read that somebody had done the t-belt without removing the spark plugs. The only thing that's a real PITA is getting the timing belt off of the crankshaft pulley and getting the new one back on, as there's a tight squeeze. 90 degrees, sunny and humid here in VA today. ![]() unfortunately, the shortest length Lowe's had was 36" for $8.50, so if anyone needs a 1" piece of steel tubing (i have 35 of them left), please send $2 via paypal to.ģ hours later, it's time for a nap. i cut it about 1" long, and used a 3/4" wrench to relieve the tension. belt tensioner adapter out of 3/4" steel tube from Lowe's. when the needle is in the correct position, hold the eccentric immoble with the allen wrench while tightening the tensioner's center mounting screw per the spec.Timing belt, tensioner, serpentine belt, and flame trap all replaced with new parts (special thanks to Rich Kelley at Bay 13/Volvospeed, Boe Kalinoski, and ). If you go too far to the left, start over again at step 1.Ĥ. Once the needle is to the right of the window (B) then you may move it back counter-clockwise so that the needle enters the window (B) from the right side and stop at the correct position as show in the diagram for the ambient temperature. If I recall correctly, if you keep moving it clockwise it will stop and go no further when the needle is at about the 2 O'Clock position.ģ. using the allen wrench, move the eccentric clockwise (which will move the needle (C) to the right). insure that the center tensioner mounting screw is snug and the eccentric (or the allen shaped hole in the eccentric to be exact) is at the 10 O'Clock positionĢ. ![]() It will make sense when you're back out there looking at it or at least looking at the diagram on Volvospeed.ġ. When I started all over again and did as previously posted, it worked perfectly. I fiddled with my tensioner until it seemed like it had lost its tension also. Maybe you need to sleep on it and get a fresh start tomorrow. You can look at a later model, 2000 for instance, to see the routing with a mechanical tensioner. I noticed your model shows the hydraulic tensioner instead of the mechanical tensioner, but I think the belt routing is the same. You can also go to, enter your model, and go the the "engine timing" category in the drop down box. I got the Conti belt from FCP and there was one of those in the box. Look in the box your belt came in, there should be a diagram of the proper belt placement. There is no exact way to do it, but you need to try to get close. You just have to guesstimate the final placement within the window based upon the ambient temperature. Also, start with the eccentric at the 10:00 O'Clock position prior to moving it clockwise. So you actually have to move the "eccentric" (A) clockwise until the needle is to the right of the window before doing as the instructions say and moving the eccentric counter-clockwise so that the needle enters the window from the right. ![]() You have to make sure that the "needle" (C) enters the "window" (B) from the right. Mike, the instructions were a little confusing to me. ![]()
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